An Epic Backpacking Trip

Setting out from Herman Gulch on Friday night

Last weekend Marcy and I went on our annual backpacking, and what a trip it was. I had been planning this trip all year and thought I had figured out a good blend of uncrowded trails, beautiful scenery and reasonable challenge.

I nailed the first two, but the last one I misjudged completely. This hike was brutally tough, the most difficult we have ever done.

On Friday night the Uber dropped us off at Herman Gulch trailhead just before 6pm. We had done this hike many times before, it isone of Marcy’s favorite hikes, and we were at our campsite at Herman Lake by 7:45pm.

We had Herman Lake to ourselves but by 8am it was already getting crowded with morning hikers. We hit the trail on what I expected would be our hardest day, I just didn’t know how hard it would be.

Following the Continental Divide trail along the ridgeline with great views

We followed the Continental Divide trail all morning and into the early afternoon before we left it for the summit push to Mount Nystrom. Here, the trail was hard to find, and the going was slower than usual. Plus it was really windy. By this stage it was already past three o’clock and we were already behind schedule.

The next part I knew would be challenging as we were hiking above treeline with no marked trail. What I didn’t know was when we got down to the trail below treeline, it would be just as sparse and difficult to find. It got to 5:30pm and we had a decision to make. Do we camp in this beautiful valley or push to our final destination still several miles away. We decided to push on.

A moose enjoying an evening paddle in Saint Louis Lake

The hike up Saint Louis Peak was brutal. We couldn’t find the trail and the mountain was about a 40% incline. We finally got up and over by 6:30pm but there was still 4+ miles to go. Needless to say those miles were not done quickly, as I was completely spent, so we finally made it to Saint Louis Lake just after 8:30pm, when it was nearly dark. As we were setting up camp, we noticed a moose paddling in the water of the lake.

The next day was challenging in a different way. We were doing fine until the final three miles. There the trail just ended, despite the map telling us it was there. We went searching for the trail but couldn’t find it. So, we fjorded the river twice as we tried to make our way to our campsite, way behind schedule again. We made it to a beautiful campsite on the river by just after 8pm.

Enjoying time in the sun after a cold night

We hoped the final day would be smooth with no surprises but that was not to be. Again the trail disappeared despite what the map said, and again we had to fjord the river. The hike up the backside of Ptarmigan Peak was challenging and by this stage I was completely worn out. So, it was slow going. We decided not to summit but do the bypass which ended up being just as long, or so it felt. We had a little rain but nothing too bad and we finally hooked up with the main trail again.

We made it! An exhausted Peter & Marcy at the Ptarmigan Peak trailhead

By the time we got to the trailhead it was after 6pm, and once again we were a couple of hours behind schedule. We were exhausted but glad to be done. An Uber back to Keystone and then dinner at Chimayo and we were home by about 8:30pm. The kids were very happy to see us after their longest time minding the house and pets.

It was a long and challenging trip and next year we decided to make it easier on ourselves. No more 18-mile days, we are thinking 10-12 miles a day, and include a “rest” day where we keep our tent up and just go for a day hike.

I already have some ideas and will start planning soon.

A Week in Keystone With (Most of) the Dahlens

The traditional kids photo with Lily joining via FaceTime

This past week we had the annual summer trip to Keystone with the Dahlens. For the first time ever, it was eight of us instead of nine, as Lily had to stay back in Iowa to work and attend classes.

The other thing that was unique about this week is that Jude, Marcy, and I had to leave for a day for Jude’s orientation at CU Boulder. That was super worthwhile, as they had a separate parents’ program, and Jude got a little feel for what college life will be like. He got to stay in one of the dorms for the night. He also selected his classes and was able to secure the ones he wanted.

Anna and Marcy on horseback

Back to Keystone, where the rest of the week was action-packed. The girls all went horseback riding one day, down near Fairplay. It was a beautiful ride, but Anna didn’t feel that great and by the end was having a major allergic reaction to her horse. So, it was straight to the urgent care, where they gave her oxygen, a nebulizer, and an EpiPen, which made her feel better. For a while, we thought this might involve an ambulance ride to Frisco because Anna was having real trouble breathing. But thankfully, she avoided that.

In Urgent Care after horseback riding but feeling a little better

Meanwhile, Nathan, Jude, and I went for a hike at Loveland Pass. It was a gorgeous day, so we climbed one of the 13ers near the top of the pass.

On the summit of Cupid Peak

The three of us played our annual round of golf at the River Course in Keystone (no cart incident this time).

Rafting down “The Numbers” on the Arkansas River near Buena Vista

There was a day of rafting that was a blast for all involved. Chloe, Mandy, and I decided to skip the rafting. I took Olive for a hike in the mountains near our place, and Mandy and Chloe had a relaxing day. That night, we all went on a ghost tour of Breckenridge, which was a lot of fun.

On Buffalo Mountain, not that far from the summit

Then, on July 4, Ella, Marcy, Jude, and I got up early to tackle Buffalo Mountain. Once again, we didn’t make the summit, as the weather was closing in, so we decided not to risk it. And we wanted to get back to meet the others at the farmers market in Dillon.

That evening was the traditional Mexican restaurant dinner, although our regular place, Dos Locos, was closed for the holidays. We tried Lime in River Run, which was excellent (I think I prefer it).

Another great week is in the books. We are already starting to talk about the 2026 trip.