
Setting out from Herman Gulch on Friday night
Last weekend Marcy and I went on our annual backpacking, and what a trip it was. I had been planning this trip all year and thought I had figured out a good blend of uncrowded trails, beautiful scenery and reasonable challenge.
I nailed the first two, but the last one I misjudged completely. This hike was brutally tough, the most difficult we have ever done.
On Friday night the Uber dropped us off at Herman Gulch trailhead just before 6pm. We had done this hike many times before, it isone of Marcy’s favorite hikes, and we were at our campsite at Herman Lake by 7:45pm.
We had Herman Lake to ourselves but by 8am it was already getting crowded with morning hikers. We hit the trail on what I expected would be our hardest day, I just didn’t know how hard it would be.

Following the Continental Divide trail along the ridgeline with great views
We followed the Continental Divide trail all morning and into the early afternoon before we left it for the summit push to Mount Nystrom. Here, the trail was hard to find, and the going was slower than usual. Plus it was really windy. By this stage it was already past three o’clock and we were already behind schedule.
The next part I knew would be challenging as we were hiking above treeline with no marked trail. What I didn’t know was when we got down to the trail below treeline, it would be just as sparse and difficult to find. It got to 5:30pm and we had a decision to make. Do we camp in this beautiful valley or push to our final destination still several miles away. We decided to push on.

A moose enjoying an evening paddle in Saint Louis Lake
The hike up Saint Louis Peak was brutal. We couldn’t find the trail and the mountain was about a 40% incline. We finally got up and over by 6:30pm but there was still 4+ miles to go. Needless to say those miles were not done quickly, as I was completely spent, so we finally made it to Saint Louis Lake just after 8:30pm, when it was nearly dark. As we were setting up camp, we noticed a moose paddling in the water of the lake.
The next day was challenging in a different way. We were doing fine until the final three miles. There the trail just ended, despite the map telling us it was there. We went searching for the trail but couldn’t find it. So, we fjorded the river twice as we tried to make our way to our campsite, way behind schedule again. We made it to a beautiful campsite on the river by just after 8pm.

Enjoying time in the sun after a cold night
We hoped the final day would be smooth with no surprises but that was not to be. Again the trail disappeared despite what the map said, and again we had to fjord the river. The hike up the backside of Ptarmigan Peak was challenging and by this stage I was completely worn out. So, it was slow going. We decided not to summit but do the bypass which ended up being just as long, or so it felt. We had a little rain but nothing too bad and we finally hooked up with the main trail again.

We made it! An exhausted Peter & Marcy at the Ptarmigan Peak trailhead
By the time we got to the trailhead it was after 6pm, and once again we were a couple of hours behind schedule. We were exhausted but glad to be done. An Uber back to Keystone and then dinner at Chimayo and we were home by about 8:30pm. The kids were very happy to see us after their longest time minding the house and pets.
It was a long and challenging trip and next year we decided to make it easier on ourselves. No more 18-mile days, we are thinking 10-12 miles a day, and include a “rest” day where we keep our tent up and just go for a day hike.
I already have some ideas and will start planning soon.